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For those seeking authentic Indian-Pakistani kababs and curries, Kafe Kabab in South Laurel offers a range of ethnic choices to tempt even the most timid taster.

And just to be fair to wary eaters, owner Faisal Jilani says it's his philosophy to allow customers to taste a dish before they order it.

"They spend the money," he said. "They have the right to [be able to] spend it on the right food."

Jilani opened his Laurel restaurant in July 2008, after a long path that led him to the county rather unexpectedly. Formerly a computer engineer in Richmond, Va., he opened his first restaurant there as soon as he was laid off in 2005, but said he had to keep running it when he was unexpectedly rehired soon after.

When his wife quit her job to stay home, he said, she was surprised by a job offer from a College Park school that she decided to accept. Jilani's wife and children moved to College Park in 2007, and he quit the full-time job and ran the restaurant, traveling between states, until he finally sold the restaurant and joined his family in Prince George's in 2008.

Jilani's restaurant in Richmond was one of the first in that area to offer "halal," or religiously permitted, meat to the Muslim community, and it was successful there, he said.

So he continued the same business practices in the Laurel restaurant, serving only hand-slaughtered halal meat, and said the community has been receptive to his presence.

Kafe Kabab's cozy, clean dining area derives some Eastern ambience from its wall décor: bronze and earth-tone paints in bold but simple geometric shapes, embellished with metalwork spirals and vines as well as bright faux jewels. Moons and stars echo Jilani's Pakistani Muslim heritage.

So does the menu, mostly, with a range of classic dishes that also prove popular: butter chicken ($9.99), chicken or paneer (cheese) tikka masala ($9.99), chicken manchurian ($9.99) or gobi (cauliflower) Manchurian ($7.99). For the Indian-Pakistani community, these are dishes that are not so easy to make at home but can be enjoyed easily at a restaurant; for others, these are classic Indian or Pakistani restaurant tastes, Jilani said.

Being a "kabab" café, the restaurant offers a starring role to kabobs on its menu. Kabobs of chicken, lamb, ground beef and ground chicken, lamb and beef are marinated mild, medium or spicy hot, and cooked over an open flame; single meat choices run from $8.99 to $9.99 and combos — lamb and chicken, chicken and beef and more – run from $10.99 to $11.99.

There are also curry entrees — meat dishes like chicken curry ($8.99) or karadhi goat ($18.99, serves two), as well as a vegetarian section including vegetable kababs ($7.99) and channa masala, or spiced chickpeas ($6.99). All entrees are served with one crisp, billowy piece of tandoori naan bread, rice, a vegetable side and yogurt salad (raita), but you can also try the traditional biryani rice dish, with chicken ($8.99), mutton ($9.99), shrimp ($10.99) or vegetables ($8.99).

The restaurant features mango lassi ($2.49), a mango-flavored sweet yogurt drink, and gulab jamun ($5.99 per pound), fried cheese balls soaked in simple syrup, on its dessert menu.

An interesting aspect of Kafe Kabab's menu is the introduction of new items every two to three months; Jilani said he likes to add dishes hailing from different cultures, but with a twist. Right now, for example, he is working on a pizza made with chicken tikka or with lamb kabobs, he said. This makes it easier for families and groups with differing tastes.

"I discovered when the parents came, they liked the [Pakistani] food," but their children didn't like it, he said.

As a result, visitors might go instead for his burgers and fries ($4.99), chicken wings ($4.99) or soft tacos ($3.99). Whatever their tastes, there's sure to be something tasty for everyone at Kafe Kabab.

Kafe Kabab

12729 Laurel Bowie Road, Laurel

Phone: 301-498-5233

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday (closed 1 to 2:30 p.m.); 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.