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Walk into Benjarong Thai Restaurant and be immersed in the savory aromas of tea, basil, chilies, garlic, ginger and lime. It's a big space with plenty of tables as well as breakaway dining areas and a comfortable bar, all neatly decorated with traditional Thai wood carvings and ornaments.

Well-heeled couples sit adjacent to casually dressed families with young children; the murmur of conversation is in a mix of languages. Service is snappy, with menus and beverages at the ready upon being seated. And the orchid in a vase on the table is real.

The menu leads off with an array of chef's specialties, followed by a myriad of salads, soups, rice and noodle entrees, as well as several dishes tailored to vegetarians. An authentic level of spicy heat is indicated by two little chili icons next to a menu item.

Of the appetizers, Kanom Jeeb is a typical yet competent and satisfying plate of pork and shrimp dumplings. The rich yet mild meaty filling is stuffed in a noodle wrapper with wrinkles that are intended to drink up the salty bittersweet soy dipping sauce.

Num Tok means business; its thin slivers of grilled beef are seasoned with ample coarse pepper and ground rice for a pleasantly crunchy finish. Dressed with loads of lime, cilantro, Thai chilies, red and white onions and scallions, it is served on a large leaf of lettuce, which works as a refreshing wrapper for conveying food from plate to mouth.

Hoi Obb, a hot pot brimming with gargantuan steamed green mussels, is a highlight of the appetizers. The clear yet full-bodied broth is laced with lemongrass, onions and sweet basil. House-ground sweet chili paste, served alongside, bumps up the heat.

Yum Woon Sen is a tasty salad of thin noodles with shrimp, ground chicken, scallions and wood ear mushrooms tossed with lime and fish sauce.

Salads are more than mere salads here. The papaya salad is a generous heap of julienne crunchy green papaya tossed with fresh tomatoes, green beans, peanuts and a couple of grilled shrimp. The dressing of lime, fish sauce and chilies was not as tightly balanced as in other dishes, but it still rocked at a one chili level of piquancy.

Onto the entrees. Kee Mao, or drunken noodles, are inch-wide rice noodles that begin with a pleasant, slightly charred flavor. They are tossed in a rich brown sauce flecked with sliced chilies, scallions and herbs and topped with four succulent tail-on shrimp.

The sauce of the Panang Curry with Chicken is a masterful balance of coconut milk, thinly sliced kaffir lime leaves, Thai curry paste and peanuts. The spices are almost floral; lime leaves do not overwhelm the creamy texture of the sauce. The chicken is thinly sliced and tender.

Crispy Duck with Basil, which consists of almost half a duck, is the standout of the entrées. Its thigh meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, and the breast is moist and meaty, both served with indulgently rich and crispy skin. The rich caramelized brown sauce is infused with chilies and topped with a pile of whole sweet basil leaves.

Among the desserts, the caramel custard is a dense flan with a caramel finish that is agreeably more bitter than sweet. It is well balanced with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry.

Benjarong serves authentic yet accessible Thai food that clearly satisfies both Thai diners and the more tender American palates. Service came on strong at first and lagged slightly as the meal progressed and business picked up, but staff responded quickly when flagged down. One whiff of the extravagant crispy whole fish being delivered to a nearby table strengthened our resolve to start our next meal at Benjarong with one of those.

Benjarong Thai Restaurant

Wintergreen Plaza, 885 Rockville Pike, Rockville

301-424-5533

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5-10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sun. noon-10 p.m.

Style of cuisine: Thai

Appetizers: $5-$9

Entrees: $9-$20

Credit cards: All major cards

www.benjarongthairestaurant.com