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As of June, Nicaro Restaurant is under new management with a new chef at the kitchen's helm. To be sure, some tasty food can be found at Nicaro; however, much of it is cluttered with dishes that have too many ingredients. The appetizers are the size of entrees and the entrees are the size of banquets. My advice is to share appetizers and split entrees.

When menus are delivered and drink orders taken, slabs of bread arrive accompanied by an appealing cilantro and jalapeno pesto. Make it last; if it's the height of the rush on a Saturday night, even with a reservation, it may take time for service to circle back. Between the NASCAR broadcast on the bar TV and the loud crowd, a table at in the lounge area is not conducive to dinner conversation. And while the tables out front on the Georgia Avenue sidewalk may be slightly more peaceful, they are further removed from the orbit of wait staff. The main dining room isn't much better; after three months, the wait staff is still fiddling with music volume and light levels.

But never mind the service; we're here for the food. The bacon wrapped shrimp, with a horseradish cocktail dipping sauce and the zippy chipotle aioli, is good. Admittedly the bacon could either be sliced thinner or pre-cooked to make it less about chewing bacon fat and more about tasting the succulent shrimp.

Tuna carpaccio is a pleasing presentation of paper-thin slices of tuna arranged on the rim of a large plate. Amply garnished with marinated artichokes, a garlicky tomato salsa and really nice sautéed mushrooms in vinaigrette, it's smothered in a bushel of baby greens.

Calamari is batter dipped and fried, then tossed with well-seasoned peppers and onions. Asia-style pickled ginger seems out of context with this mostly Mediterranean-themed plate.

The least expensive appetizer is perhaps the most satisfying. Half barbecue rib is an entrée portion of tender spareribs coated with a zesty barbecue sauce and accompanied by well-cooked steak fries. Request a ramekin of the chipotle aioli as dip for the fries. Curry, tomato and garlic mussels consist of a dozen or so plump mussels served on the half shell with a garlic and onion tomato concasse.

Of the entrees, shrimp and bacon a la carbonara is a filling plate of tortellini in a cheesy alfredo sauce thick with morsels of shrimp and bacon. An order of vodka infused mahi mahi comes with a caution: the chef may like to cook fish pink at the bone. The piece that arrived was from near the tail, thin with several bones and anything but underdone. Potato dumplings are an interesting pan fried gallette of mashed potatoes and pureed broccoli. One would suffice; two is excessive. And while the asparagus was tough and stringy, the unannounced garnish of sautéed shrimp and onions was the highlight of the plate.

The expensive, and grammatically challenged, peppered crusted New York steak may have been ordered medium rare. It was undercooked, tough and chewy with a significant rim of fat. Copious grilled peppers, baseball sized potatoes and sautéed mushrooms did little to compensate for the unsatisfying steak. A sleeper pleaser is the humble jambalaya, a spicy mix of sausage, chicken, shrimp, peppers and onions over spaghetti.

When it comes to dessert, the team of mini trios consists of a sampling of any three desserts. Rum raisin chocolate bread pudding, lemon lime tie and Bailey's tiramisu are rich and delicious.

Our server worked hard to provide pleasant and good service during a challenging rush of Saturday evening business. However, when it comes to the bill, beware. At Nicaro, a gratuity of 18 percent is automatically added to all parties of four or more people, with an additional prompt for more gratuity. Take this edict out of the equation, request to have this removed from the bill and tip your server directly and fairly in cash.

nicaro

8229 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring

301-588-2867

Hours: Tues. – Fri. 11 a.m. to midnight; Lunch items are served Tues. – Fri. noon to 4 p.m. Sat. no lunch, open 2 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun. 3 to 9 p.m.

Starters: $8-$13

Entrees: $18-$25

Credit cards: All major cards

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www.nicarorestaurant.com