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Carbón

100 F Gibbs St., Rockville

301-251-1944, fax 301-251-1945

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

Style of cuisine: Peruvian chicken and grill

Sides: $2.50-$3

Entrees: $6-$14

Credit cards: All major cards

Accessible

Delivery (limited), carryout

www.Carbónrockville.com

Carbón arrived in the spring, a welcome addition to Rockville Town Square. It will please fans of Peruvian chicken, especially those who miss Lillian Clary's original restaurant, La Flor de la Canela in Gaithersburg.

It pleases Clary, too.

"We saw the place empty," she explains. "People like rotisserie chicken. It's a different concept from the other restaurants here. It's half a block from La Canela. I can take care of both at the same time."

Unlike the upscale La Canela, Carbón is down to earth. A mural of sky-high Machu Picchu whets the appetite for things Peruvian. The bright interior seats 44. The walk up counter is classy black granite, and the open kitchen behind it has bright red accents. Individual bottles of wine and liqueur rest atop a display case with desserts, salads and drinks.

The signature succulent rotisserie chicken is served whole, half, as light or dark quarters and in family portions. A variety of sauces tease the palate: pink rocoto mayo (made with Peruvian red rocoto peppers); spicy pale green jalapeño-laced mayo and dark green fiery chopped jalapeños.

From the grill comes the top of the line Peruvian-style broiled N.Y. steak with Argentinean-inspired chimichurri sauce and asado de tira (grilled marinated short ribs). Tender, juicy and tasty anticucho (marinated and grilled beef hearts) pair with papa sancochada (boiled potato slices) and Peruvian aji (a hot sauce). Looking for authentic street food? There's choncholi, marinated milk tripe grilled just like in the streets of Lima, and rachi, honeycomb tripe, first boiled then marinated and grilled.

Sandwiches, served on a ciabatta roll with french fries and a small salad, are a good value at $6 to $7. Rocoto mayonnaise sparks the excellent charcoal broiled chicken in the sanduche de pollo. Pork chicharrón, the typical Peruvian breakfast, Clary says, is prepared with care. The marinated boneless pork cooks slowly in its own juices for five hours, then is crispened to order for a sandwich with sarza criolla and thin sweet potato fries. Argentinean-style chorizo slathered with mustard, mayo and chimichurri sauce fills another sandwich.

Words you like to read: "All of our sides and sauces are made by us, mixed by us, emulsified by us, roasted and fried by us. Nothing we offer has been previously made."

Notable sides: Peruvian-style stewed black beans with onions, garlic and herbs made from scratch daily; garlic and olive oil scented jasmine rice; chunky, sweet fried plantains and fried yuca "lincoln logs."

The silky smooth flan (aka Peruvian crème caramel) is a standout dessert. Others are a rich, sweet tres leches cake, alfajores (Peruvian butter cookies filled with dulce de leche) and arroz con leche (rice pudding).

Lagniappe – a little something extra

First Watch Rockville

100 Gibbs St. Unit D, Rockville

301-762-0621

Hours: 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Accessible

www.firstwatch.com

Snowbirder friends report there's always a line at their Florida branch of this national chain. It's easy to see why. First Watch, "the daytime café," sports a lengthy menu of breakfast, brunch and lunch fare with a price tag of $7.99 tops.

Its bright interior, filled with wood tables, can be noisy (those window walls and high ceiling).

Healthy options include a two egg white omelet with diced turkey, onions, spinach and feta with sliced ripe tomatoes on side and a dry English muffin or the Lean Machine, two cholesterol- and fat-free eggs, a seasoned dark meat turkey patty, sliced tomato and dry English muffin.

Less virtuous but delicious are two blueberry pancakes that all but cover a 10-inch plate. Or a large pecan Dijon salad that embraces sliced chicken breast on bed of romaine, sliced avocado, bacon (alas, not crisp), tomato, shredded carrots, Jack cheese and enough honey Dijon dressing to satisfy.

Coffee pots reside on the table and Bigelow organic caffeine-free tea is among the offerings.

baugust@gazette.net