Grape Lines: Fruity, well-balanced wines work well with grilled fare
Finding a wine to match the complexity of grilled foods can be challenging. The distinctive smoky flavors can overwhelm delicate wines such as Pinot Noir or unoaked Chardonnay.
The best wines for grilled meats and poultry are big, fruit-filled and well-balanced with pleasant acidity. Ideally, the alcohol content should be low, but even wines at 14 percent or greater can be enjoyable if they are nicely structured.
The All-American Zinfandel is a favorite barbecue wine because of its rich berry flavors, often accented with pepper and spice. The latest release of Sbragia Gino's Vineyard Zinfandel 2007 ($28) is gracefully fruity with raspberry, black pepper and dill notes, while the Grgich Hills Zinfandel 2007 ($35) is bigger with some earthiness to its red berry, spicy cherry and licorice flavors. The Frank Family Reserve Zinfandel 2007 ($50) is especially good, with black fruit, dark cherry and pepper leading into a spicy finish. An enjoyable value-priced offering is the plum-scented Mondavi Private Reserve Zinfandel 2007 ($9) that also contains a bit of Petite Sirah, Merlot, Petite Verdot and Syrah that contribute to the complex plum, raspberry and black pepper flavors. The Ravenswood Vintners Blend Zinfandel 2007 ($9) is another surprisingly complex bargain that has an interesting smokiness along with vanilla and coffee notes intermixed within the blackberry and dark cherry flavors.
Wines generally compliment food from the same region. Argentina is known for its grilled meat cuisine, so it is no surprise that its Malbecs are terrific with summer fare. Two great values are the Luigi Bosca La Linda Malbec 2007 ($9) that shows gorgeous, smoothly savory raspberry, black cherry, strawberry and coffee notes and the Concha Y Toro Xplorado Malbec 2009 ($7) that has more coffee and plum accents to the underlying dark cherry and earthy strawberry flavors.
International winemaking consultant Michel Rolland's Clos de los Siete 2008 ($17) is a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot from several estates. Big and expressive in his characteristic style, it has deep dark spicy fruit flavors with tobacco, mocha and blueberry in the lengthy finish.
While a Cabernet Sauvignon is usually great with steak, during the summer heat lighter wines with more fruitiness are a better choice. Italian wines are especially good including the floral scented Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2007 ($25) that has mouth-filling dark cherry and berry flavors along with a touch of red currants and chocolate. An American version from Napa Valley is the Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese 2006 ($25) that has a bit more red fruit and herbal notes in front leading to a bright finish.
Syrah is a spicier alternative that holds up well to richer sauces. The deep, dark Taz Goat Rock Syrah 2007 ($24) is made in California but is Northern Rhone in style with a pleasant earthiness and mint mixed within the black plum, dark cherry and licorice flavors. Also from California is the delicious Rocca Family Syrah 2006 ($44) that is drinking beautifully right now but could also last for several more years. It is almost decadently rich and earthy with spicy blackberry, dried cherry and cracked pepper flavors that evolve into a smooth balanced finish. Cherry aromas accented with smoky oak predominate in the Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2008 ($14), a typical well-made Australian value wine with blackberry, plum and cherry notes.