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New Carrollton’s Pancake House does basics rightThursday, June 29, 2006
When asked when the restaurant is busiest, the owner says, ‘‘It is not uncommon for the line to be out the door on weekends.” Breakfast is one of the most popular meals, and since it is served all day, one need not be an early-riser to get it. There is a Saturday morning breakfast crowd and an after church crowd that comes in on Sundays. Bowie’s Vawndalyn Feagins is sometimes part of that after church crowd. ‘‘I know it by the orange sign,” she said. ‘‘It’s affordable and good.” The Pancake House Family Restaurant is on Annapolis Road in New Carrollton, not far from Route 50. A bright orange sign that declares its name in black letters is visible from the road. This helps the restaurant, whose walls are covered with pictures of sports cars, to stand out on this stretch of road with several car dealerships. The small, square building also has a similar bright orange sign, but this one says ‘‘Family Breakfast & Carryout”. In addition to serving those who sit down to dine, the Pancake House also does a brisk takeout business. Patrons can order anything on the menu to go. Although he has been doing it for years, owner Soc Yakoumatos points out that takeout is a ‘‘growing trend in the restaurant business, even at places that charge $100 a plate.” Crystal Williams has worked as a waitress at the Pancake House for seven years, and says that the takeout side of things is ‘‘busy, especially on weekends.” Calling ahead for takeout is recommended. For those who enjoy omelets, there are several to choose from, all served with home fries and toast, and all under $6. There are traditional omelets with cheese, or ham or bacon, as well as a Greek omelet and a scrapple omelet.
Pancakes, a central part of the square deals, come in a wide variety, including the familiar (blueberry and banana nut) to ones that are unique (bacon, cheese, and raisin). The pancakes are large and fluffy, and need their own plate. For $5.45 you can fill up on two extra large eggs and two pancakes with ham, bacon, sausage, or scrapple. Turkey sausage and turkey bacon are available. In a nod to Maryland’s culinary heritage, there is a square deal with two fried crab cakes, three eggs and two pancakes for $9.95. This meal’s lunch⁄dinner counterpart is two crabcakes served with the salad bar and a vegetable, also for $9.95. There are plenty of options for those who are not interested in breakfast. A hamburger is $2.25, while the 8-ounce, extra super burger is $4.95. There are ham and turkey sandwiches (both are $3), and a pork chop sandwich for $5.25. The triple-decker clubs and subs are $5.45 each and come with French fries or onion rings. Entrées, such as grilled beef liver and onion ($5.95) and the porterhouse steak ($13.95), are each accompanied by the salad bar and a vegetable. Seafood dinners include salmon ($8.95) and fried scallops ($10.95). A younger person perusing the menu might see some items that look unfamiliar such as the homemade creamed chipped beef ($4.45), open face sandwiches ($5.45 each) or the scrapple that is an option with breakfast are not the kinds of dishes served in chain restaurants. Yakoumatos says that his restaurant is ‘‘kind of a dinosaur of the past” and that ‘‘restaurants are almost cookie cutter these days.” However, the fact that it is not cookie cutter is what makes the Pancake House memorable. The staff is hardworking, friendly, and patient. The owner thinks that the home-style breakfast and service are what distinguishes his restaurant from others. ‘‘We cater to the customer. There is no problem with substitutions,” he says.
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