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Pasteis de bacalhau, tablespoon-sized fritters shaped from a mixture of mashed potatoes and salt cured cod, is the traditional gold standard of Portuguese cuisine. At Tavira Restaurant, these codfish fritters are crisp and golden on the outside and creamy yet light and hot on the inside with a distinctive briny flavor. Served with aioli, the fresh mayonnaise packs a punch of garlic, lemon and olive oil that almost takes your breath away. 

While Tavira may be located in the lower level of an office building, the spacious lounge at its entrance has the feel of a breezy Mediterranean café with a couple of more formal roomy ancillary dining rooms attached. Jazzy, lyrical samba wafts just above the din of the dining rooms. The attentive wait staff is both experienced and entertaining when explaining the menu's standard items and daily specials, all written in Portuguese with descriptions in English.  

Of the appetizers, the raviolis are rectangular packets of cheesy goodness cooked to a pleasing al dente texture, and tossed in a smooth tomato cream sauce. Both the steamed clams and the steamed mussels are cooked and served in a hinged copper clamshell vessel. It opens so that the shellfish are presented in their flavorful broth in one bowl, and the empty shells may be deposited in the other. A small dice of Portuguese chorizo sausage and lots of roasted garlic, parsley and onions make the clams more delicious. Most mussels were cooked just right, plump and still full in the shell, and garnished nicely with a tomato broth rich in slivered onions and sliced red and yellow peppers. Some mussels did not open and were avoided. 

Appetizer specials include fresh grilled sardines, which are not as oily or compact as their canned brethren. They are still strong and cooked on the bone with the skin. The filets flake off with a fork and are delicious drawn through the vinegary garnish of finely diced red and green peppers, tomato and spring greens.

Of the entrees, lamb chops are individually sliced on the bone and grilled to order. Some chops are sliced thicker than others; some are cooked less than others. And the chef won't cook them well done, so don't ask. I doubt there is any mint jelly in the pantry. Instead, the lamb is seasoned with ample chopped garlic and parsley and served with a generous portion of rich, yet light mashed potatoes and a side of sautéed snow peas and nicely cut carrots.

The New York strip steak is a generous portion of properly cooked certified angus beef; however, its madeira sauce is too subtle and mild. On the other hand, the meuniere sauce, a pan sauce of brown butter, lemon, parsley, capers and sundried tomatoes, is a rich yet brightly flavored compliment to the lightly sautéed fresh cod filet. Again, bold flavors are the forte here, with additional garnish of slivered black olives, carved steamed potatoes and a hill of nicely sautéed spinach.

Classic house-made desserts include a pear poached in red wine syrup, served over a large scoop of ice cream. Crème brulee is a shallow dish of vanilla custard with a lot of surface area for the thin crunchy finish of darkly candied sugar caramelized at the order. And strawberries sabayon is by the book, the fresh berries topped with a whipped mousse of egg yolks cooked together with sugar and marsala wine.  Off the beaten track is a hollowed out coconut shell filled with delicious coconut ice cream.

Tavira Restaurant

8401 Connecticut Ave., Chevy Chase

301-652-8684

Hours: lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5:30-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m.

Style of cuisine: Portuguese and Mediterranean

Prices: Lunch: appetizers: $5-$7.25; entrees: $8.95-$17.95

Dinner: appetizers: $5-$9.95; entrees:$18.95-$25.95

Credit cards: All major cards

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www.tavirarestaurant.com