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How does an American come to love Russian food? For Bill Stuart, owner of Nostalgie Bistro, the answer is easy: start by loving a Russian. Then, over time, let her guide you through the delights of Russian restaurants up and down the East Coast.

By the time they were engaged, he was ready to realize another goal: to be in the restaurant business.

With 40,000 ex-pats from the former Soviet bloc countries in the metropolitan area, Stuart figured he would have it made on birthdays and anniversaries alone. He may have a point. On a recent weekend, at various times, a wedding party, a graduation party and a birthday party occupied half the 60-seat restaurant.

Nothing in the décor screams Russian until the menu is opened. Note also the Georgian wine and the Russian vodka. With 29 hot and cold selections, the menu is heavy into appetizers. In Russian restaurants, people share a series of appetizers, paired with shots of vodka or beer. Such a meal is called zakuska, the Russian equivalent of small plates, tapas or mezza. We sample two. The otherwise enjoyable grilled octopus is missing the advertised spicy garlic sauce that would elevate it. The sliced eggplant Georgian-style, stuffed with nuts, carrots and spices, is an unusual and winning rendition.

"Georgia has the best food in the former Soviet Union," remarks a knowledgeable friend as she scans the menu for familiar dishes. "You can order red caviar, but you can't have black caviar," her husband adds.

That's understandable. Red caviar costs $19. Black caviar is $99! They settle on cups of Ukrainian borscht. Borscht derives its name from the Old Slavic word for beets. Nostalgie's popular vegetarian version is perfect for a warm evening; in winter, a heartier meat version might be preferable.

Our Siberian-born server delivers a basket of soft, swirled rye and pumpernickel bread.

Kebabs are typical fare, and Nostalgie's outstanding mtsvadi offers a choice of skewered pork or chicken. Georgian pkhali, a tasty melange of beets, diced potatoes and kidney beans, and french fries accompany it.

The eagerly anticipated, homemade Siberian pelmeni, or meat-filled ravioli, are dry and bland, missing sour cream or other sauce.

The herb-topped 16-ounce veal chop is tender, juicy and grilled as ordered. But the menu description doesn't always match what appears on the plate. The billed gorgonzola, mushrooms, home fries and chickpea salad are no shows. A green salad and nicely sauteed carrots, cauliflower and celery are the accompaniments.

Lemon juice and chopped cilantro lift the rack of lamb. The crowded plate holds french fries, a small salad and a generous helping of "Olivier" salad. This mixture of diced potatoes, carrots, hardboiled egg, peas and mayo, a staple of zakuska, is named for its creator, Czar Nicholas II's French chef.

Nostalgie's head chef Arturo Avagen is an Armenian native who trained in Moscow and Italy. His second in command, Marlina Klochkova, hails from Moscow.

The napoleon is the most popular dessert, our server says. We opt for the intense, fondant-topped dark chocolate cake and are glad we did. Tiramisu truffle is not the familiar espresso-soaked cake and whipped cream confection, but rather delicious tiramisu-flavored gelato. Crème brulee, an admittedly smallish portion, is rich. The espresso is fine, but the coffee is weak.

There's always something at Nostalgie Bistro. A talented violinist takes up his electric instrument on Fridays. A three-piece band holds forth on Saturdays. A multi-course Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., is $19.95. Add a glass of champagne, wine or Bloody Mary for $2.

Draft beer is $2 weekdays between 5 and 7 p.m. House wine is half-price on Wednesdays. Thursdays bring a DJ and half-price Russian vodka and house wine.

Caveat: The high ceiling and bare windows magnify noise and challenge conversations. Try sitting at an outdoor table.

Nostalgie Bistro

800 Pleasant Drive, Rockville

301-355-4979

Hours: Sun. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Tues. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Wed. 11 a.m.-midnight, Thurs.-Sat. 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m.

Style of cuisine: Russian, Georgian, Eastern European

Appetizers: $6-$14

Entrees: $13-$24

Credit cards: AE, MC, V

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www.nostalgiebistro.com