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Not long after we are seated at Guardado's, the 2-year-old Spanish and Latin family-run restaurant, a crowd forms on the sidewalk. Big black SUVs block the street, disgorging men in dark suits and sunglasses. What is going on?

"Maybe it's the President," jokes my friend.

Presently, our waiter Carlos confirms that Barack Obama entered the building across the street. I am puzzled. It's a garage.

My friend posits an answer: Since Friday night is Family Night for the Obamas, perhaps POTUS et al have gone to Imagination Stage, the children's theater on the other side of the garage. With an eye and ear out for the presidential reappearance, we agree to make a meal of hot and cold tapas. It is an easy decision.

Owner and executive chef Nicholas Guardado learned his trade from José Andrés, Washington's premier Spanish chef whose Jaleo restaurants ignited the craze for tapas. An October 2003 profile of Guardado in Gourmet Magazine notes that the El Salvador native, hampered by his lack of English, had been relegated to low-profile jobs. Andrés recognized Guardado's potential after three months and encouraged him to become a cook. Hired for the salad station, he was sous chef by 2003 and ultimately executive chef in Bethesda.

Another experience was pivotal that year. Andrés enrolled Guardado in a Spanish-language course in classic French techniques at L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg. The Gourmet article concluded that what Guardado learned "is that he can probably cook anywhere he wants." After 15 years at Jaleo, anywhere he wants meant his own restaurant where his wife Reyna oversees the dining room.

Guardado's kitchen knows its stuff. All our tapas, arriving in twos and threes, are admirable. Gambas al ajillo (shrimp sautéed with garlic) are a perennial favorite, but we choose to kick it up a notch with chorizo (Spanish sausage), chopped tomato and thyme accenting the shrimp.

It is our pleasure to share the flavors of espinacas con naranjas (sautéed fresh spinach with shallots, oranges, raisins and pine nuts).

We have a moment of indecision — pulpo a la gallega or pulpo a la vinagreta? Simply put, hot or cold octopus. Gallega (hot with paprika and roasted garlic) wins handily. Tortilla Española, the famed Spanish omelet with potatoes and carmelized onions, is another pleaser.

We are grateful for the bread basket that is refilled at our asking. We wouldn't want to leave any of the tasty sauces, particularly the lobster sauce on the vieiras or large pan-seared scallops with sautéed endive. That vegetable makes a dandy little boat to hold the ensalada de mariscos (mixed seafood salad) in a sherry vinaigrette.

Ensalada de papa, traditional Spanish potato salad or Russa, is a revelation of how good potato salad can be with the right ingredients. In this case, they include tuna, roasted red peppers, green peas, carrots, hard-boiled eggs and mayonnaise.

The Spanish know their ham and cheese and pair them beautifully as in jamon Serrano con queso Manchego.

Nine tapas prove about right for four people. We are satisfied but have room for dessert. The tres leches cake, not made in house, is luscious though sweet. The chocolate mousse cake is dense and delicious. Limoncello sorbet, elegantly served in a narrow champagne flute, is creamy enough to remind one diner of the filling for Key lime pie.

Almost 40 wines, priced from $26 to $44, make up the wine list. Our desire, however, this night is for sangria.

As we finish dinner, a cheer goes up on the sidewalk. With others, we dash to the door just in time to see POTUS duck into a waiting vehicle. My speedier better half reports that the President smiled and waved to the appreciative audience.

Making her rounds afterward, Reyna Guardado stops at our table, and asks if we enjoyed our meal. You bet! We assure her that we will return — the tapas are great, but there are entrées, including paella, to explore. She cannot promise another presidential appearance; that is once in a lifetime.

Guardado's

4918 Del Ray Ave., Bethesda

301-986-4920, fax 301-986-4921

Hours: Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun. 5-9 p.m., closed Mon.

Style of cuisine: Spanish/Latin

Dinner entrees: $6.25-$18.95, tapas $5.75-$9.25

Carryout

Catering

Private Events

Children's Menu

Free Wireless Internet Access

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Accessible

www.guardadosnico.com