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Bezu has traded in fusion and flamboyance for straightforward French sophistication. Gone are the flashy arrangements of baked and twisted parmesan and dishes that seemed obligated to fuse two or more ingredients from far-flung culinary regions and traditions.

Professional wait staff are as important as competent cooks and, at Bezu, part of the satiation comes with polite, polished service, insightful recommendations and well-paced delivery. Despite web chatter lamenting long waits between dishes and cramped seating, we received attentive service and our food arrived like clockwork, even on a Saturday evening. A caveat: Bezu is recommended for restaurant savvy children, not recommended for squirmy crayon and chicken tender kids.

Chefs from the South of France can elevate a mere salad from delicious to sublime, and Executive Chef Francis Layrle is no exception. It is testament to the experience and expertise of a chef who can evaluate the quality of prickly seasonal bitter greens like curly frisee and craft just the right vinaigrette — vinegar, mild olive oil, smoked bacon and plenty of piquant Dijon mustard emulsified into a creamy new flavor element — a fusion that defies its mundane parts.

Dressed seconds before plating, Bezu's frisee salad is presented as a nest for one perfectly poached egg, the white cooked until firm, the yolk still runny. Generally, dressed salads are hostile to fine wine, yet that poached egg renders the salad eminently wine-friendly.

The rendition of escargot a la Provencal is classic yet far from routine. Button mushrooms are cooked to mimic the tender earthy texture of the snails, making the dozen or so escargot seem like more. They are tossed in butter with ample garlic and parsley, and seasoned to perfection with salt and pepper and a hint of something spicy. The ragout is topped with bread crumbs and broiled for a few seconds, providing a delicate crunch that contrasts nicely with the richness of the dish.

Ethical ramifications notwithstanding, foie gras is an extravagant dish and difficult to prepare well. At Bezu, it's a generously thick slab that is seared hot, served still pink and soft in the center, although under-seasoned. The rich delicacy is balanced by the tartness of its accompaniments, slices of roasted pears and apples, along with the port wine sauce.

Of the entrees, the Black Cod appears simple, but the techniques and ingredients provide many layers of flavor and texture. The fish is seared so the skin is crisp, and the flesh is delicate and flaky. It is served atop a slightly smoky stew of tomatoes and peppers including piment d'Espelette, a sweet sunny pepper with a Basque heritage that is cultivated and processed exclusively in the Pyrenees.

The nine-ounce veal chop is cooked perfectly, pink at the bone, with a delicious slightly tannic pomegranate and Madeira sauce, which lends itself well to further wine pairings. The dish comes with small braised Brussels sprouts and potatoes two ways: a buttery potato puree topped with crisp and salty shoe string potatoes.

When it's time for sweets, thinly sliced pineapple is glazed with caramel sauce and a vanilla custard sauce. The combination of sauces is wonderful, although the pineapple tastes raw, under-ripe. The trio of pots of crème is an exercise in varying degrees of bittersweet and richness. While the vanilla custard, as well as the coffee custard, could be more delicate, the slightly bitter dark chocolate cream is ethereal. Both coffee and cappuccino are top-grade and a strong finish.

Bezu

9812 Falls Road, Potomac

301-299-3000

Hours: : Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. 5-9 p.m., Tues.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-10:30 p.m.

Style of cuisine: French, Contemporary American

Appetizers: $13-$21

Entrees: $19-$39

Credit cards: All major cards

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www.bezurestaurant.com