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Beale Street Grill is a nifty neighborhood destination that pays homage through food and music to its Memphis namesake. And these distinct flavors and are noticeable immediately upon entering its doors; the dining room is filled with the aroma of dishes cooked with vinegar, spice and salt. The appetite is further whetted when a wire vase, filled with a couple of warm soft pretzels and a small dose of very peppy honey mustard, arrives with the menu. Service is professional, prompt and pleasant, and the hospitality is genuine. Appropriate rock and blues tunes help set the tone without overwhelming the conversation.

Along with a tasteful selection of wines, a wide array of tantalizing beers is on tap. Appetizers include a snappy green bean tempura; crunchy pole beans batter dipped and flash fried, served with a creamy horseradish and mustard-flavored aioli that is milder than the ingredients imply. The char on the chili grilled shrimp is a little intense, and while the avocado and corn salsa is both fresh and refreshing, it could use another squeeze of lime and pinch of salt.

Memphis sliders is an appetizer-sized portion of barbecue: three mini sandwiches of either barbecue pork, beef brisket with melted pepper jack cheese or barbecued chicken with smoked Gouda cheese. Rather than committing to one flavor of barbecue for all three mini sandwiches, it would be nice to have a "flight" of barbecue, a sandwich of each type. Nonetheless, the brisket is delicious, and the beef is rich and tender from cooking slowly at a low temperature. The vinegary and slightly sweet tomato barbecue sauce complement its smoky flavor, and the buns are toasted — a very important detail.

Dry-rub crusted tender pork spare ribs are a signature of Memphis-style barbecue, and the restaurant executes its version well. In general, spareribs tend to enjoy a full throttle chili rub, and Beale Street's spicy ribs lay the pepper and spice on thick. The ribs are good by themselves, and even better when drizzled with the house sweet and sour barbecue sauce. The accompanying side of beans and coleslaw are mild and could use a little more zip.

While the menu emphasizes barbecue, wings and burgers, many dishes feature fish, pasta and vegetables. Grilled rockfish has plenty of seasonings and flavor, except for salt, and is topped with a diced cucumber and red onion salsa that reveals a playful talent for combining crunchy and delicate textures and fresh flavors. The spinach is perfectly cooked, wilted without being limp or soggy, and the sweet potato fries are a nice alternative to french fries.

The root beer granita is a root beer float, a really good one made with quality ice cream and soda. The house cookies are apparently baked to order, and are served hot and gooey with a dusting of powdered sugar.

Beale Street Grill has a polished yet very casual look and feel. Chef Patrick Blinn was chef at Agridolce Restaurant, and his food is executed with flair and a restrained hand for salt. The dining room runs smoothly during the dinner hours, although this critic's impulsive ordering put the server a little off his rhythm.

The bar is small with three TV screens and can accommodate a modest bar crowd without impinging on the dining room's family-friendly atmosphere.

Beale Street Grill

9712 Traville Gateway Drive, Rockville

301-838-5590

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Style of cuisine: American bar and grill, barbecue

Appetizers: $3-$10

Entrees (including sandwiches): $9-$25

Credit cards: All major cards

Accessible

Take out available

www.bealestreetgrill.com