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At Negril Jamaican Eatery, curried goat is glorious rib sticking sustenance. Its large, coarsely chopped, gamey hunks of meat are masterfully seasoned and seared, then slowly simmered to tenderness in a mild, yet full flavored curry broth, just waiting for a few drops of the house habanero hot sauce. Picking through pieces of bone, whole allspice berries and sprigs of thyme is part of the tasty authentic charm of this Jamaican comfort food. The herbs, spices and bones all infuse this stew with the true flavors of the Caribbean.

Chicken soup consists of generous chunks of breast meat on the bone simmered in a protein-rich chicken broth thickened with slabs of potato, carrot and other vegetables. Fish "tea" is a dense chowder made with half a red snapper chopped up and simmered amid carrots and celery. Coco bread, the unique house bread, is a sweetened enriched white bun.

Curried chicken is also mildly seasoned with a full spectrum of curry spices of cardamom, allspice and cinnamon. A simple green salad and a field of beans and rice accompany the tender, moist braised chicken. Watch out for prickly chicken bones in this dish as well as in the fricassee of chicken in brown sauce. Bones may give the dish more flavor and richness, but they can be hazardous.

While all dishes are mild in salt and heat, a modest drizzle of the incendiary house habanero sauce available in small plastic containers provides a spike of heat; it also excites the other flavors in the dish.

Another house specialty is the escoveitched red snapper, a head-on whole fish seared and then simmered in a rich brown tomato based sauce with peppers, onions, carrots and plenty of allspice berries. All entrees come with a briny pickled cabbage slaw with shredded carrots, which is even better with a few drops of the habenero hot sauce swirled in.

Vegetarians will find plenty to savor. Vegetable roti is a rich stew of carrots, black eyed peas, corn, broccoli, sweet potato and pumpkin simmered in vegetable stock and served with the house salad as well as rice and beans.

While no alcoholic beverages are available, Jamaican juices and teas are an important part of Negril's menu. Homemade fruit punch is a beguiling blend of tropical fruit juices, and the sorrel tea is an oddly refreshing infusion of the sour citrus herb with vast amounts of ginger and sugar.

The Silver Spring eatery also features traditional baked breads, sweet spice cakes and Jamaican patties, a flaky turnover stuffed with meat and/or vegetable fillings. Particularly delightful baked desserts include the banana cake, rum cake and especially, the tropical spiced carrot cake.

The dishes may be slightly messy but their flavors are worth the work.

It is important to note that food is mostly packaged to be taken away, but the eatery houses a small dining room, away from the front door traffic. There, meals can be savored, albeit with plastic utensils on cafeteria trays to the sound of reggae music. Graciousness and hospitality characterize the service, with the manager offering sample tastes of off-beat dishes to tempt any skeptic. Food arrives promptly, nicely finished and served hot.

Begril Jamaican Eatery

965 Thayer Ave., Silver Spring

301-585-3000

Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday until 10 p.m.; closed Sunday

Style of cuisine: Caribbean

Soups: $3.25

Appetizers: $1.65-$4.50

Entrees: $7.25-$11.50

Credit cards: All major cards

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www.negrileats.com