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Sabai Sabai, a phrase from a popular Thai song, means relax. Srisuda, known as CiCi, and Fred Hart took that admonition seriously. They chose a casual ambiance and a mix of classics and quick and easy street fare for their 4-month-old restaurant. For Germantown, it's a perfect match. The contemporary bistro, with 70 seats, 10 of them at the bar, is humming this Saturday night. Families with children fit right in with the din.

The Harts are not new to the business. They sold their original Thai restaurant, Benjarong, in Rockville two years ago. But when the opportunity arose to open a place closer to home, the couple came out of retirement. The majority of their people came with them, Fred Hart says.

Dining at Sabai Sabai is a surfeit of riches. For starters, a traditional trio fills the bill nicely. Tod mun goong, five golden fried shrimp cakes served with julienne cucumber relish, is superior to the usual fish cake version. Kanom jeeb, steamed minced pork and shrimp dumplings akin to Chinese shui mai, are complemented by a tasty dipping sauce. Mee krob, crispy vermicelli with tofu and shrimp, avoids the cloying sweetness sometimes encountered in this dish.

Thai soups like fiery lemongrass and shrimp tom yum (spiciness is denoted on the menu with symbolic chilies), mild tofu minced pork soup with glass noodles and mushrooms or its pork-less version are perfect antidotes for cold weather.

The unexpected pleasures of Thai food revolve around the use of a constellation of herbs and spices: galangal (a relative of ginger), turmeric, coriander, lemongrass, chilies, kaffir lime leaves, coconut milk, to name a few. The kitchen uses no MSG. "It's all done spice-wise," Hart explains, noting that the the chef can moderate spiciness.

The kitchen shows its skill in Sabai signature dishes like basil pork crisp, which may be unique to this restaurant. The crispy three-layer pork stir-fried with fresh chili sauce and crispy fried basil goes right onto one friend's all-time favorite list. When he tells our server so, she agrees, "It's my favorite, too."

Duck lovers could not wish for a better dish than Sabai's crispy duck topped with holy basil. The generously portioned, flash-fried roasted duck is aglow with fresh chili sauce. Four delectable Sabai Sabai lamb chops repose over asparagus spears, broccoli, miniature corn and carrots carved as hearts and flowers. The accompanying sauce, like a Thai A-1 sauce, has a surprising zip. Sabai Sabai grilled chicken, marinated with coconut milk, cilantro roots and pepper, delivers a cut up bronzed half chicken plus a refreshing green papaya salad.

Hart touts the curries as "just like in Thailand" and jungle curry with fish and veggies, including tiny Thai eggplants, does not disappoint. The Thai minced pork omelette is comfort food, pure and simple. As in many dishes, the sauce (Sriracha here) is thoughtfully served on the side with an offer to bring a replacement if it's too hot. It is fine. Another comfort food, drunken noodles are broad rice noodles dressed up with beef, cherry tomatoes, onion, button mushrooms, Thai chili peppers and holy basil in a multifaceted brown sauce. Our ginger beef stir fry, reminiscent of Chinese stir fries, enlivened with cloud ear mushrooms and onions is also a pleaser.

The Harts' daughter, whose photos of Thailand decorate the dining room, is a vegetarian. Her input in the 20 vegetarian starters, soups and entrees is evident as is the care put into sourcing the vegetables. Some dishes, like veggie tofu soup, herbal tofu and jungle curry, are meatless riffs on main menu dishes. Others, such as "you think it's duck curry" and classic bean sprouts, use mock duck and imitation fish respectively, something not seen much in area Thai restaurants.

Asked to name the most popular dishes, the Harts tick off lamb Massaman curry, basil pork crisp, crispy herbal fish, crispy herbal tofu, floating market noodle soup, kao na moo dang and kra pow on rice (a lunch set).

Mango and sticky rice is a Thai staple. Not even our server's warning that mangoes are not in season dissuades some fans from ordering it. Though the sticky rice is delicious, the mango, as predicted, is less than sweet. Perhaps the dish should not be offered when ripe mangoes are not available. Coconut chunks are a nice surprise in the coconut ice cream accompanying the sweet taro mousse crepe. The Key lime pie is not Thai but it is authentic and luscious; likewise, the rich and smooth caramel custard.

Tea, a choice of jasmine or green, is served in large individual white ceramic pots, a nice touch. The service is exemplary.

"We don't want to have customers; we want to have friends," says Hart. He should have many. Sabai Sabai adds a delicious new dimension to dining in Germantown.

Sabai, Sabai Simply Thai

19847 Century Blvd., Germantown

301-528-1400, fax 301-528-1402

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 4:30-10 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun. noon-9:30 p.m.

Style of cuisine: Thai

Entrees: $8.95-$18.95

Credit cards: All major cards

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www.sabaisimplythai.com