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Downstairs in his boutique, Paul Koko shows Darnice Martin of Upper Marlboro a jacket pattern he made based on her requests.

"The most important thing is the neck," he tells her on Dec. 24 as he shows her how the fabric will sit on her shoulders. Koko gently touches the mock version of the jacket, which he'll transform into a piece of customized clothing.

Upstairs at the Paul Koko Fashion Design Gallery in Riverdale, the humming of sewing machines and music fills the air as Koko's five employees, all trained tailors, work on separate garment pieces, some designed for celebrity clientele.

Koko, a 53-year-old Hyattsville resident, has tailored suits and designed clothes for 35 years, and he's been doing it out of his Riverdale location on Baltimore Avenue since 1999.

Koko grew up around clothing, with an older brother who studied the craft after he graduated high school.

"It was something I always wanted to do, since I was young," Koko said. "I loved to see people looking good."

He left his native Ghana when he was 19 to study at a fashion institute in Amsterdam, Netherlands. Koko stayed there for 16 years to work under well-established designers and tailors before he immigrated to the United States in 1989.

Koko moved to Hyattsville, where he began working out of his basement and tailoring suits for friends. He then opened his shop in Riverdale.

Koko's business thrives on word-of-mouth, so, after becoming friends with Baltimore-based fashion designer Travis Winky and doing fashion shows with him, Koko landed work with notable athletes, politicians and preachers.

His clients have included Luther Vandross, for whom Koko tailored a number of suits about six years ago, before the popular singer died in 2005. Koko has also tailored suits for Washington Wizards players Mitch Richmond and Rod Strickland and Redskins players Brian Mitchell and Scott Galbraith.

Koko tailors suits mostly for men but also makes women's suits and bridal dresses. Most men who come to him are big and tall, the kind of men who can't get suits in a regular store, he said.

But Koko won't divulge all of his clients' names, particularly accomplished athletes, prominent preachers and governors, at least not without their permission – some of his clients have public deals with big-name fashion designers. Koko said tailors are akin to doctors – building and keeping a client's trust is essential for business.

"The first time when you get their order, you make it for them, you do it the right way, and they keep on coming and refer other people," he said.

Bishop Larry Jordan of Upper Marlboro first went to Koko 15 years ago on the recommendation of a friend.

"I saw some of his work and I was like, ‘Wow. Why should I go to [Nordstrom] or Neiman Marcus to buy a suit when here's a guy who can not only make a suit I like, but it's customized to my body,'" Jordan said.

Jordan has stuck with Koko ever since because of his unique style and the kindness he shows his clients. For example, unlike other tailors, Koko does alterations for free, and Jordan said since Koko is a trained designer, he can bring bold new concepts to clothing that other tailors can't.

"He's a very, very humble man. He's not a guy that brags on and on about his abilities," Jordan said.

Koko looked into moving his gallery to Washington, D.C., but the rent was too high, he said. By staying in Riverdale, he can keep his overhead costs low.

"Here, they still come, and also I can give them good deals," he said.

Jim Estepp, president and CEO of the Greater Prince George's Business Roundtable, said Koko's business stands out since Prince George's isn't known for having many tailors, unlike places like Annapolis. But he does think custom-made suits are a growing trend among county-based professionals.

"I know a lot of people who are in business today or professional people who like the fit and service of custom-made clothes," Estepp said.

Koko's average suits start at $675 apiece. The style of the suits Koko makes varies greatly –the gallery's upstairs is filled with different garment pieces. As Koko works to put the finishing touches on a gray, striped traditional suit jacket, across him sits a mannequin bust wearing a black velvet sport coat and hot pink collared shirt.

Although business has slowed down because of the staggering economy, which has spurred large retailers to slash prices on their own suits, Koko and his team continue to stay busy with numerous orders for suits, all wanted by a particular deadline.

"The competition is very, very great out there," he said as he sewed a button on the suit jacket. "You got to know what you're doing to stay in this business."